|Posted by Noha on June 17, 2011 at 1:52 PM||comments (0)|
By: Lion Brand Yarn
If you're looking for something to really brighten up your room then this is the perfect crochet pattern for you. Make a windchime afghan pattern from Lion Brand Yarn. Stripes and lace combine to make this afghan perfect.
Vanna's Choice Yarn, 3.5 oz/100g (170 yd/156 m) balls, 4-ply worsted-weight, 100% acrylic:
Toffee (860-124) 2 balls (A)
Magenta (860-144) 1 ball (B)
Dusty Blue (860-108) 1 ball (C)
Burgundy (860-148) 1 ball (D)
Brick (860-133) 1 ball (E)
Beige (860-123) 1 ball (F)
Pea Green (860-170) 1 ball (G)
Rust (860-135) 1 ball (H)
Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size J-10 (6.00mm/UK4)
Large-Eye Blunt Needles
About 36 x 56 in. (91.5 x 142 cm)
12 dc + 7 rows = 4 in. (10 cm). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
With A, ch 174.
Row 1 (WS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (beginning ch counts as dc) and in each ch across – 172 dc at end of this row.
Rows 2 and 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), turn, dc in each st across.
Row 4: Ch 3, turn, dc in next 3 sts, *ch 2, sk next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts; rep from * across – 28 ch-2 sps at end of this row.
Rows 5-7: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.
Notes: Second-Eighth Strips are worked as for First Strip through Row 7, and then joined to previous Strip with a Joining Row. The Joining Row is worked back and forth between the last row of the current strip and the foundation ch of the previous strip. With B, ch 174.
Rows 1-7: Work Rows 1-7 of First Strip. Do not fasten off. With RS facing, place previous Strip above current Strip.
Joining Row: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st of current Strip, ch 2, sc in first foundation ch of previous Strip, ch 3, sk next 2 sts of current Strip, *sc in next st of current Strip, ch 3, sk next 3 sts of previous Strip, sc in next st of previous Strip, ch 3, sk next 3 sts of current Strip; rep across continuing to work back and forth between the 2 Strips, ending with sc in last st of current Strip, ch 2, sk next 2 sts of previous Strip, sc in last st of previous Strip. Fasten off.
With C, D, E, F, G, and H, work as for Second Strip.
With RS facing, join A with sl st in any corner.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around outside edge, working 3 sc in each corner; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in each corner; join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
|Posted by Noha on June 9, 2011 at 1:39 PM||comments (1)|
Get in the mood for spring anytime of the year with this daisy-colored yellow and white dish cloth. This dish cloth crochet pattern brings warmth and cheer to your kitchen. This dattern is for the dish cloth at top right. For the dishcloth at bottom left, see the Daisy Dish Cloth Crochet Pattern.
Lily® Sugar ’n Cream (Solids: 70.9 g/2.5 oz/109 m/120 yds) (Ombres: 56.7g/2 oz/86 m/95 yds) (00165 Daisy Ombre) 1 ball
Crochet Hook: Size 5 mm (U.S. H or 8 ) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.
Gauge: 13 sts and 12 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in pat.
Size: Approx 13 ins [33 cm] square.
1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of chain. 43 sts. Turn.
2nd row: Ch 1. *1 sc in next sc. 1 tr in next sc. Rep from * across to last sc, pushing tr to RS of work. 1 sc in last sc. Turn.
3rd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st to end of row. Turn.
4th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 2 sc. *1 tr in next sc. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * across to last sc, pushing tr to RS of work. 1 sc in last sc. Turn.
5th row: As 3rd row.
Rep 2nd to 5th rows for pat until work from beg measures 13 ins [33 cm], ending on a RS row.
Hanging Loop: Ch 10. Join with sl st in last sc worked. Fasten off.
|Posted by Noha on June 6, 2011 at 2:13 AM||comments (0)|
- crochet hook No.1 (2,25 mm)
- red cotton yarn
- polyfil to stuff
- tapestry needle and scissors
sc - single crochet
sl st - slip stitch
sc2tog - single crochet decrease (work 2 sc together)
st(s) - stitch(es)
rd - round
Stitches and crochet techniques used
Insert hook in next st, yarn over and draw through all loops.
Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops on hook.
Single Crochet Decrease (Sc2tog)
Insert hook in next st and draw up a loop, (two loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 3 loops.
Magic adjustable ring
First make a loop with your yarn leaving 3" long tail. Insert hook in center of loop made, yarn over and draw up loop. Yarn over, pull through to make your first chain. (Do not count this as your first sc) Continue to crochet over the loop and the yarn tail until you have the required number of scs for your first round. For example, if the pattern calls for 5 scs, then sc 5 times into the ring. (Insert hook into the center of the ring and draw up loop, yarn over and draw through both loops.) When finished, pull the tail to close the ring.
Beginning at the top of the heart.
Start with magic adjustable ring.
Rd 1: Work 6 sc into the center of ring (6)
Rd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rd 3: * Sc in next st, work 2 sc in next st, repeat from * around (18 )
Sl st in next st, cut yarn leaving 10” long tail and pull through last loop. You've just finished the first top half of the heart (Top A).
To make another top half repeat the rounds 1-3 as follows:
Rd 1 : Work 6 sc into the center of ring (6)
Rd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around (12)
Rd 3: * Sc in next st, work 2 sc in next st, repeat from * around (18 )
The second top half of the heart is finished (Top B). Do not cut yarn. (Image 01)
Rd 4 : Sc in next 9 sts of the Top B.
Merge the halves together: Insert hook into first stitch after sl st made on Top A and continue to make 1 sc in all 18 stitches. Insert hook back into the Top B and work 1 sc in next 9 sc. (One round completed with 36 sc) (Image 02)
With the tail from Top A close the gap between the two top halves. (Image 03 and 04)
Rd 5 : Sc around (36)
Rd 6 : * Sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (30)
Rd 7: * Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24)
Rd 8: * Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (18 )
Rd 9: * Sc in next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around (12)
Stuff! (Image 05) While stuffing make sure the tail you used to close the gap is not stuck inside, you'll need it later to pull tight and shape the heart.
Continue with “sc in next st, sc2tog” until you heave 5 scs left.
Cut yarn and pull it through last loop. Now pull the Top A tail tight to shape the heart and hide the tail inside with tapestry needle.
Weave tail through 5 scs and pull tight to close. Weave in end.
Your heart is finished!
|Posted by Noha on May 31, 2011 at 3:58 AM||comments (0)|
I had this idea of encouraging the egyptian production. I was glad that others had the same idea and started working on it. A group has already started a compaign of letting people work from home then sell their products. We want to eliminate importing any products and start exporting. The idea is to make a lot of people join this campaign. This way the amount of egyptian crochet products manufactured will be huge. So, anyone in egypt who want's to join please visit: http://mndobak.com/vb/index.php
|Posted by Noha on May 16, 2011 at 5:38 AM||comments (0)|
These abbreviations are used in patterns.
Instructions and Illustrations
beg -- begin/begins/beginning
bpdc -- back post double crochet
bpsc -- back post single crochet
bptr -- back post treble crochet
CC -- contrasting color
ch(s) -- chain(s)
ch-- - refers to chain or space previously made (i.e. ch-1 space)
ch sp(s) -- chain space(s)
cl(s) -- cluster(s)
cm -- centimeter(s)
dc -- double crochet (singular/plural)
dc dec -- double crochet 2 or more stitches together, as indicated
dec -- decrease/decreases/decreasing
dtr -- double treble crochet
ext -- extended
fpdc -- front post double crochet
fpsc -- front post single crochet
fptr -- front post treble crochet
g -- gram(s)
hdc -- half double crochet
hdc dec -- half double crochet 2 or more stitches together, as indicated
inc -- increase/increases/increasing
lp(s) -- loop(s)
MC -- main color
mm -- millimeter(s)
oz -- ounce(s)
pc -- popcorn(s)
rem -- remain/remains/remaining
rep(s) -- repeat(s)
rnd(s) -- round(s)
RS -- right side
sc -- single crochet (singular/plural)
sc dec -- single crochet 2 or more stitches together, as indicated
sk -- skip/skipped/skipping
sl st(s) -- slip stitch(es)
sp(s) -- space(s)/spaced
st(s) -- stitch(es)
tog -- together
tr -- treble crochet
trtr -- triple treble
WS -- wrong side
yd(s) -- yard(s)
yo -- yarn over
|Posted by Noha on May 16, 2011 at 4:19 AM||comments (0)|
These yarn recommendations are intended to help beginning crocheters select their first yarn to use for making practice swatches when learning how to crochet.
Yarn Texture: Choose a smooth yarn rather than a textured yarn; for your first several projects, avoid eyelash yarns, which can be frustrating to work with.
Yarn Color: Choose light yarn rather than dark; it can be challenging to see your stitches when you work with yarns in dark colors.
Yarn vs Crochet Thread: Yarn is easier to work with than crochet thread is. If you want to work projects like doilies and lace tablecloths, don't let that discourage you; I've known crocheters who've jumped right into working with thread from the beginning. If you don't have a strong preference, I do recommend starting with yarn.
Yarn Weights: Yarn comes in a variety of weights. For your first practice swatches, I recommend using yarn that is at least a worsted weight; if you prefer to try a bulky weight yarn, that would be an equally good choice. To check the weight of the yarn you are buying, just read the label. Choose yarn that is labeled with "4" or higher as specified by the Craft Yarn Council's weight standards.
Wool Yarn: Wool is an excellent choice for practicing your crochet stitches. It's a resilient fiber, and is forgiving of mistakes. If you do make a mistake, most wool yarns are easy to unravel and re-use. If wool is available to you, and within your price range, and you aren't allergic to it, I recommend using wool to start out with.
Cotton Yarn: Cotton is an inelastic fiber, which makes it slightly more of a challenge to crochet with than wool is. However, cotton isn't so difficult to work with that I'd tell you to steer clear of it all together. If you're learning to crochet during the summer time, when the heat makes it unpleasant to work with wool, cotton yarn is a great choice.
Acrylic Yarn: Acrylic yarn is an acceptable choice for beginners, although some of the cheapest acrylics can be especially challenging to crochet with. If you're on a super-tight budget, don't let that deter you; it's what most crocheters are using.
Overall, acrylic is a popular fiber with crochet enthusiasts; acrylic is widely available, it comes in a variety of colors, and it is usually one of the more affordable choices for yarn.
Acrylic yarn is what I learned to crochet with. I don't mind telling you that nowadays it isn't my favorite fiber. It has its place, but, in hindsight, I wish I had learned about natural fibers sooner; I really wish that I hadn't spent so much time crocheting with the cheapest of cheap acrylics.
Hopefully these suggestions will help you get started. In the future, if you are planning to crochet a project using a pattern, your pattern will often specify exactly which yarn you should use. In that case, I recommend that you go with the pattern designer's suggestion, at least until you have enough experience to understand how to successfully substitute yarns.
|Posted by Noha on May 16, 2011 at 2:54 AM||comments (1)|
You don't need many supplies to get started with crochet. The basics include
That's it! Those are the basic supplies you need to get started.